Explore the Big Island, Hawaii: Green Sand Beach & South Point
In Hawaii, history and environmentalism meets tourism in a way that can be hugely beneficial — but often becomes detrimental to the local ecosystem and people. At South Point and Papakolea, you have the opportunity to see ancestral grounds, learn about part of Hawaii’s history, and unwind in nature. But it’s important to be mindful of your impact when you go.
On an earlier trip, I’d gone to nearby South Point but hadn’t made the trek from there out to the green sand beach. Now I can’t wait to go back. This area doesn’t look like what you’d expect on any Hawaiian island. It’s also a place of huge historical significance for Hawaiians and encourages you to really get in tune with nature. Massive waves at the southernmost point in the US, open land that offers no break from the sun or wind, tide pools and cliffs — and then there’s Papakolea, where you may find yourself swimming with sea turtles and listening to whales beneath the water.
Natural beauty aside, understanding the history of those lands helps build respect, whether you live there or are a tourist.
South Point: Polynesians’ First Arrival in Hawaii
On your way to the green sand beach, you’ll come to a fork in the road. If you decide to turn right instead of following the signs for “green sands,” you’ll find yourself at the southernmost point in the United States: South Point, also known as Ka Lae (or “the Point” in Hawaiian).
At least…you’ll find yourself at a small parking area near a cliff where you’ll find long fishing lines, crashing waves, and a cliff-jumping platform. Stand near the edge of the cliffs and you may spot sea turtles swimming in the water or whales in the distance – and you may get a show as many adventurous visitors enjoy jumping into the waters below.
It’s believed that South Point was the first landing point for Polynesians’ first arrival in the Hawaiian islands. After their arrival, it continued to be a popular fishing area – and still is to this day. If you walk down the coast, the cliffs will turn to tide pools and you’ll see a low rock wall. This wall is actually part of ancient ruins, Kalalea Heiau, and leads you to the real southernmost point in the US. Along the way, you’ll find signs with information about the area’s history.
Take time to explore, climb around tide pools, and watch massive waves crash against the rocky shores.
Conservationism & Respecting Ancestral Ground
At this point, you’re in one of the most remote and rural parts of the Big Island of Hawaii – it’s also ancestral ground that’s at the center of a local battle over improving conservationism and respect for the land. Many tourists come to the area without knowing much at all about its historical relevance or the fact that they’re traveling on ancestral grounds.
For some native Hawaiians, this is a point of contention. Many locals have pushed to have the area better regulated to protect the land from further harm and erosion from tourists (and some locals) off-roading – even though local car rental companies state that renters shouldn’t take their vehicles off-roading. In the past, any attempts to block off certain areas from off-roaders have been unsuccessful, though there’s still pressure to find a solution that will last.
Regardless of whether you see barriers when you visit, be sure to remain respectful of the land and ancient ruins to help their preservation.
Cliff Jump – At Your Own Risk
Though many visitors and locals alike love to cliff jump at South Point, there’s risk involved. There are no lifeguards watching to make sure you come back up to the surface and can make it to the long rope ladder in order to climb back up the cliff – it’s all up to you. If you’re lucky, there may be a local there who’s jumped many times and can help with what it’s like and what not to do.
If you decide cliff jumping isn’t for you, there’s also a hole in the rocks that goes all the way down to the water. You can climb a ways down into that hole and relax, watching waves come in and out below you.
Or if simply watching cliff jumpers is more your style, you may also notice a number of fishing lines set up along the cliffs as you wander. While this area was historically popular for fishing, it continues to today, too. Mahi mahi, tuna, and red snapper are all prevalent in the surrounding waters – and are all popular in Hawaiian cuisine.
Papakolea Green Sand Beach
There are only four known green sand beaches in the world – and one of them is on the Big Island of Hawaii: Papakolea Beach. The others include Talofofo Beach in Guam, Punta Cormorant in Ecuador, and Hornindalsvatnet in Norway. Most commonly, green sand beaches are so-colored thanks to olivine deposits in the sand. For Papakolea, that olivine comes from lava – as the heaviest component in lava, olivine crystals settled and formed the beach.
Papakolea was formed during an eruption long ago and you’re actually sunning and swimming in a partially-collapsed cinder cone. Another name for the beach is Mahana Beach, which comes from the name of the surrounding cinder cone: Pu’u Mahana.
Now it’s a place where many people come to escape to nature and swim in what I like to call the world’s best natural wave pool. Plan ahead with a picnic – just be sure to carry out everything you bring with you, including trash – and spend a day here.
How Long Does it Take to Hike to Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach?
The trek from the parking area to Papakolea is roughly 3 miles. So when hiking, it’s likely to take 45-60 minutes each way, depending on your pace, though you’ll have plenty of opportunity to stop and take in coastal scenery along the way. Bear in mind that there are no breaks from the sun along the way, so bring plenty of water to get you through the hike and your time at the beach.
A quicker – though controversial – option is to hire a ride. Some tourists who have rented Jeeps or other off-road-friendly vehicles also opt to drive themselves. Many locals are eager to make a quick buck off tourists who don’t want to do the three-mile hike and will offer a ride for a fee.
The hike there and back goes across land that’s been worn down into winding tracks by off-roading traffic. Simply follow these tracks along the coast until you see a bay appear in front of you with cliffs receding into green sand at the bottom. Once there, you’ll see a short set of stairs beginning your trek down the steep slope to the beach.
If you’re iffy about heights and steep slopes, you can take the route through a crevasse worn into the rocks – just be careful about scraping your feet, legs, or knees along the way. And don’t get too intimidated, the trip down is easier than it looks – and well worth it.
Can You Safely Swim at Papakolea?
The short answer – yes. Once you get past the breaking point, the waves are more enjoyable than anything and the beach slopes so gradually that it doesn’t get overly deep for a long ways out. Like I mentioned earlier, swimming at Papakolea was like swimming in a natural wave pool – plus if you dare to dive below the surface, you may find yourself swimming next to a sea turtle or listening to whales.
Out of the water, the wind can whip sand around, so many people will claim spots in a sheltered corner of the beach to enjoy food and drink. Luckily, there are plenty of places on both sand and stone to lay your towel and relax for a while before jumping back in the water or heading back home.
You’ll also get to do your fare share of people-watching. While we were there, we saw people from all walks of life enjoying the green sand beach, including a clifftop meditator. The key is to do what you’re comfortable with and have fun!
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